June Travel Plans

June 1, 2012 by Andrea 11 Comments

Road Trip Time!

I love, love, love road trips! In fact, I love them so much I decided to create a dedicated road trip blog called Rear View Mirror. Over there I’m going to be writing about road trips around Europe as well as day trips from Europe’s main cities. It’s still fairly new (I haven’t added a logo/header yet) but please have a look and let me know what you think. If you would like to follow along and get tips and ideas for driving around Europe then subscribe to the RSS feed. I’ll be using the same Facebook page which you can like here if you haven’t already.

Thanks to Changes in Longitude for convincing me starting a road trip blog was a good idea. If there’s anything you don’t like about the site blame Michael!

Road Trip #1

I’ll be taking off on my first road trip of the month tomorrow. Milan is the destination. I’m not going to do sightseeing but to see Soundgarden in concert! I saw them here in Paris earlier in the week but that wasn’t enough so I figured why not drive down to Milan to see them again?

After Italy the road trip will continue with stops in Annecy and who knows where else before returning to Paris for a couple of weeks. Annecy is a great foodie destination and I hope to go to La Salle des Gardes, Crêperie Ti Mad and Au Péché Mignon as recommended by @trottaround. If anyone else has foodie recommendations in Annecy let me know in the comments or on Twitter.

Road Trip #2

Later in the month I’ll be off on a long road trip to Berlin, this time to see Pearl Jam in concert! I love travelling to see concerts and it’s one of the huge benefits of living in Europe.

I’ve already taken many road trips through Germany but on this occasion I’m planning to stop in cities I’ve never visited before. The itinerary looks something like this:

Paris – Trier – Rudesheim – Hiedelberg – Maulbronn – Schwäbisch Hall – Leipzig – Berlin

Again if you’d like to follow the trip subscribe to Rear View Mirror although I’ll still be writing here of course. I’ll also be quite active on Instragram (destinationeu). Speaking of which if you’d like me to follow you on Instagram, leave your username in the comments and I’ll add you.

What are your travel plans this month?

Filed Under: General Tagged With: Germany, Italy, plans, road trips

5 Tips for Visiting Cologne

May 24, 2012 by Andrea 9 Comments

I have totally changed my about Cologne. When I first visited in 2007 I thought it was the most boring of German cities. There aren’t many tourist attractions and there are better places in Germany to go shopping so I wrote it off. I did go back though, either passing through to go elsewhere or as a quick getaway from Paris, and little by little it grew on me. Here are my top 5 tips to make a trip to Cologne worthwhile.

Have a Beer by the Rhine

For me, Cologne is all about chilling out and sitting in one of the beer gardens by the Rhine is a great place to do that. There are plenty to choose from and they are always packed with tourists and locals alike. Ständige Vertretung has one of the best locations and if you’re lucky you’ll get some free entertainment from one of the local buskers.

Get the Best View of Cologne

Looking back towards Cologne from the right bank (the Deutz area) you’ll get one of the best views of the city including that of the Dom which dominates the skyline.

If you cross the River Rhine on the Deutz Bridge you’ll get a close up view of Cologne’s pretty altstadt (old town).

Add a Lovelock to the Hohenzollern Bridge

On your way back from the right bank, cross over the Hohenzollern Bridge and check out the 1000s of lovelocks which have accumulated in recent years. I’m not a huge fan of the lovelocks on the Pont des Arts in Paris but they seem to fit Cologne for some reason. Add your own if you like.

Visit Cologne’s Festivals

Cologne’s annual Christmas market and Carnival festival are known around the world and are great events to visit in the city. There are smaller events too like the Cologne Lights show and Cologne Pride, both held in July.

Eat!

There are plenty of opportunities to try German specialities in Cologne and the best place for that would be one of the pubs around Heumarkt or try Cafe Wahlen for traditional coffee and cake. There’s a great choice of international cuisine too including Cuban and Mexican or if you prefer more contemporary meals head to the area around Ehrenstraße. If the weather is not too good you could always take refuge in the chocolate museum.

Those are some of my favourite things to do in Cologne. What would you recommend?

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: Cologne, Germany, top 5

A Little Berlin Inspiration

March 29, 2012 by Andrea 1 Comment

Little Big Berlin from pilpop on Vimeo.

It’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of Germany so I thought I would share this cute tilt-shift video of Berlin I saw earlier today on Travel Dudes. The fantastic music is Hungarian Rhapsody No. 2 by Franz Liszt.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: berlin, Germany, video

Travel Photo: Dresden

March 29, 2012 by Andrea Leave a Comment

Looking towards Dresden’s old town from the Festungsmauern Am Brühlschen Garten at the end of Brühl’s Terrace.

Filed Under: Travel Photos Tagged With: dresden, Germany, photography, saxony

Crossing The Berlin Wall

March 20, 2012 by Andrea 12 Comments

Imagine getting a new job, moving into a new apartment and spending just one last night in your old apartment only to wake up in the morning to find you have been barricaded in by a barbed wire fence with no way in or out. You have no access to your job or belongings. No access to your new life. Trapped behind the Berlin Wall. This is what happened to Günter Litfin on the 13th August 1961, the day the Berlin Wall went up. Eleven days later he attempted to cross into West Berlin by swimming across the River Spree. He was shot by East Berlin border guards and drowned.

However, Günter Litfin wasn’t the first casualty of the Berlin Wall. There was one death before his, that of Ida Siekmann who jumped out of her East Berlin apartment window. She landed in West Berlin but died shortly after. It was attempts like hers which lead to the demolition of apartments lining the wall and the creation of the ‘death strip’, a strip of vacant land in front of the wall guarded by East Berlin border guards.

Also demolished was the Church of Reconciliation in the Mitte district of Berlin. After the fall of the wall, the church was replaced with the Chapel of Reconciliation and is part of the Berlin Wall Memorial near former ghost station Berlin Nordbahnhof.

Stations like Berlin Nordbahnhof became ghost stations as they were bordered up by the East Berlin authorities. You could take the S-Bahn in West Berlin and ride through the closed East Berlin stations, where the doors never opened, and then get out at the other side back in West Berlin.

One of the few legal East/West Berlin crossing points was at the Friedrichstrasse train station in a specially built building known as the Palace of Tears, named for the tearful farewells of those unable to cross the border. The Palace of Tears is now a museum where you can see the border crossing and find out about life in divided Germany or watch a propaganda video!

We finished the tour at the Brandenburg Gate, the symbol of East Berlin and the site of the famous footage from the 9th November 1989 when the Berlin Wall came down.

Here is a video of the tour I was on with our very passionate guide, Julian. The sound isn’t that great but I do make a very brief appearance so it’s worth watching.

The city tours offered by Context Travel (my tour was complimentary) are based on an interesting concept where they have historians and academics give unique walking seminars in small groups. They are designed for, in their words, ‘intellectually curious’ travellers and their 3 hour tours give an in-depth view of a unique aspect of the city. I’ve never been on a tour like this before and it was fascinating to learn so many details about the Berlin Wall which I never would have discovered otherwise. I’m looking forward to taking part in two more Context tours next month, one is an evening tour of Rome and the other a drawing class and visit of Castel Sant’Angelo.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: berlin, cold war, Germany, tours

Going Retro: The Trabant

February 2, 2012 by Andrea 6 Comments

The East German Trabant or Trabi is not something you see everyday, at least not in my part of the world but I have spotted them every now and then in Germany. They were produced in East Germany from the 50s until the fall of the Berlin Wall and are easily recognisable as the design never really changed much in all the years of production.

Trabants are adorable cars and a bit of a collectors item nowadays even though they have been rated as one of the worst cars ever! There are more than 32,000 still on the road so hopefully I’ll spot a few more next time I’m in Germany.

The cars shown above are part of a tour you can take in Berlin where you drive around in your Trabant and see the sights of the city. What a great idea!

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: berlin, cars, Germany

7 Great Things About Dresden

January 28, 2012 by Andrea 12 Comments

Germany is such a diverse country and each time I visit a new region I’m surprised with what I discover. While each region shares a similar culture, history and cuisine, they are different enough to make each place unique and interesting. Some cities are more unique than others and Dresden stands out to me as somewhere like no other in Germany.

I was in Dresden in December and was expecting bitterly cold temperatures and snow but instead the weather was sunny and mild. It was unusual for that time of the year but it gave me the opportunity to spend hours each day walking and exploring the city. Here are 7 great things I discovered about Dresden while I was there.

1. Dresden has been completely rebuilt

The Allied bombardment of Dresden in the final days of WWII completely destroyed the city and killed at least 25,000 civilians. That was followed by decades of communist rule so I wasn’t expecting too much in terms of architecture. Fortunately though, much of the old town has been rebuilt in its original style and structures like the beautiful Frauenkirche stand once again.

2. The Balcony of Europe

Brühl’s Terrace is an elevated area along the Elbe known as the Balcony of Europe. It’s a great place to walk and admire the scenery and the paddle steamers located below.

3. Meissen Porcelain

While porcelain gets a bit of a bad rap for being old fashioned, the famous Meissen porcelain is now being produced in more modern designs. Unfortunately it’s a little out of my budget but the incredible porcelain painting on the side of the Furstenzug is completely free to admire.

4. Food at the Christmas Markets

Dresden has the oldest Christmas market in the world and in my experience the best Christmas market food. I was travelling solo in Dresden so it was nice to be able to snack on fresh and healthy (sometimes) street food instead of having to eat alone in a restaurant.

5. The Stunning City Skyline

The rebuilding of the city is best appreciated in the stunning city skyline. The New Synagogue, Frauenkirche, Hofkirche and the Semperoper are all located along the Elbe and make for a beautiful sight, especially when lit up at night. This view is from my room at the Hotel Am Terrassenufer which you can read more about here.

6. The New Green Vault

Dresden has some fascinating museums but the one which really blew my mind was the New Green Vault at the Residenzschloss. There you can see a cherry pit which is said to have 185 faces carved on it. I can’t imagine why someone would do that but kudos to them. There are gold and ivory statues with the Royal Household at Delhi being one of the most elaborate.

Image: Wikipedia

You can also get a close up look at the Dresden Green Diamond which is 41 carats (!) and flawless. It is green in colour because it was exposed to natural radiation.

Unfortunately it’s not possible to take photos in the museum so it’s difficult to show how amazing it is but I think it’s worth visiting Dresden for this museum alone. I have never seen anything like the intricate and elaborate statues and ornaments found there.

7. Coffee and Cake

The afternoon tradition of stopping for coffee and cake is well respected in Dresden. I enjoyed a cake break at the famous Grand Cafe Coselpalais, just next to the Frauenkirche. The baroque style building was rebuilt and completed in 2000 and they are once again serving traditional food and desserts on beautiful Meissen porcelain tableware.

I spent most of my time walking around Dresden but also did a hop on hop off bus tour which was great for seeing sights a bit further out of the centre and to keep warm when it started to get a little chilly.

It seems like each time I visit a new city in Germany, that city becomes my favourite. Cologne, Munich and Berlin have all been my favourite German cities at one time or another but now it’s most definitely Dresden, a city which deserves more attention than it gets.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: dresden, Germany, saxony

Travel Photo: Cologne

January 24, 2012 by Andrea 2 Comments

UNESCO World Heritage Site Cologne Cathedral and the Hohenzollern Bridge.

Since 2008 people have been placing ‘love locks’ on the bridge and there are now thousands of locks on the fence between the footpath and the train tracks. Iain from MalloryOnTravel wrote about Cologne’s love locks and most comments seem to be in favour of them but I’m not so sure. I know the love locks on the Ponts des Arts in Paris are regularly removed by the authorities but in Cologne they seem to be accepted. What do you think, romantic or an eyesore?

Filed Under: Travel Photos Tagged With: Cologne, Germany, love locks

Munich in Winter

January 23, 2012 by Andrea 7 Comments

Spring and summer are great times to visit Munich as the warmer and dryer weather means you can enjoy the many beer gardens and parks dotted around the city or even do a little river surfing. September too sees floods of visitors arrive in the city for the annual Oktoberfest but what about in the winter months?

My three days in Munich last month were extremely hectic so the city definitely doesn’t quieten down in the colder months. If anything I’d say December is a very busy time with all the Christmas markets, the Tollwood Festival and everyone out Christmas shopping. It’s a great time to visit because there is no chance you’ll be bored and you can avoid the cooler weather by heading indoors to visit any of the many museums and art galleries.

Tollwood Winter Festival

The Tollwood Winter Festival is more than just a Christmas market. It has more of an international flavour and there is entertainment like circus acts and a special New Year’s celebration. There are themed tents depending on what you want to do and these are the best places to keep warm on a wintry day.

Christmas Markets

The main Christmas market in Marienplatz is a nice place to wander around but you might want to avoid visiting on the weekends when it can get very, very crowded. A better option would be to stick to the smaller markets which still have a lot to offer but you don’t have to worry about pushing your way through the crowds. I particularly liked the small market off Odeonsplatz and the medieval style Christmas market at Wittelsbacherplatz.

From Wittelsbacherplatz you could cross the road to enjoy coffee and cake at the historic Cafe Luitpold.

Museum Quarter

Not far from the main train station you’ll find many of Munich’s most well known museums and art galleries conveniently located within a few minutes walk of each other. For €12 you can get a day pass to the 3 Pinakotheken (Alte, Neue and Moderne) and the Museum Brandhorst.

The Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) is particularly well known for it works by Rubens including the The Dying Seneca where philosopher Seneca is forced to commit ‘suicide’.

At the Neue Pinakothek (New Picture Gallery) there are a huge number of popular works by Renoir, Monet, Toulouse-Lautrec, Van Gogh and my favourite that day, Woman in Red Dress by Edvard Munch.

I particularly liked the Pinakothek der Moderne (Modern Art Museum) for its design museum which includes computer design through the decades (Apple is well represented) and a great section on furniture and product design.

Shopping

Munich has always been one of my favourite places to go shopping. You’ve got all the popular chain stores along pedestrian street Kaufinger Straße, more upmarket shops at Theatinerstraße and Fünf Höfe and window shopping only (for me) at Maximilianstraße. Smaller and cheaper shops are found in Sendlinger Straße and Schwabing. One of my favourite shops is Manufactum which has an odd mix of gourmet food, clothing, office and gardening products. I don’t quite get it but it’s fun to walk around.

Eating

Normally I would recommend going to Viktualienmarkt to pick up picnic supplies but obviously that’s not a good idea in the middle of winter. Instead, I’d suggest heading next door to the recently opened Schrannenhalle which is an indoor market where you can pick up gourmet food to go or sit and eat at the informal tables. This has quickly become one of my favourite foodie places in Munich.

Across from Schrannenhalle is one of my favourite cafes of all time, Cafe Frischhut. It’s a Munich institution and not to be missed.

There are a million other places to eat in Munich so I might have to go back just to research the best places to eat. If you’re feeling particularly touristy you could always eat at Hofbrauhaus but once was more than enough for me.

Where to Stay

On this trip to Munich I stayed at the Schiller5 Hotel. The location is perfect as it’s walking distance to the main train station, Marienplatz, the Tollwood Festival and the museum area. The hotel itself is very modern, spotlessly clean and with large apartment rooms (with kitchen) so if you want to shop at Schrannenhalle and eat in your room you can. Read my full review of Schiller5 here.

Munich in Winter

I don’t think there is ever a bad time to visit Munich. It’s a big city where there is always something going on and always something new to see. Hopefully this year will be the year I finally get to go to Oktoberfest but if not I will happily return any time.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: bavaria, Germany, Munich

Travel Photo: Munich

January 12, 2012 by Andrea Leave a Comment

Munich’s gothic revival style New Town Hall on Marienplatz.

Filed Under: Travel Photos Tagged With: bavaria, Germany, Munich, photography

Going Solo in Nuremberg

January 10, 2012 by Andrea 6 Comments

All I knew about Nuremberg before heading there is that they have one of the most visited Christmas markets in Europe and of course for the Nuremberg Trials. I’ve already written about their traditional Christmas market as well as the famous Nuremberg bratwurst but the city has much more to offer than that.

I usually travel with my husband but while he was off spending time with his family I decided to make a quick trip to Nuremberg. This was my first solo trip for quite some time so to keep busy I got myself a Nuremberg City Card and set about visiting all the cultural sights.

The most popular attraction in Nuremberg is the Imperial Castle and this is the perfect place to start a visit to the city as you get a great overview of the city from high up on the hill.

You can visit the castle grounds during the day for free and visit the museum to see the medieval armour and weapons. I would only recommend visiting the castle museum if you are interested in weaponry as there isn’t much else to see. There are guided tours of the castle but they are only available in German.

From the castle you can head down to Albrecht Durer’s House. Albrecht Durer was well known around Europe during his lifetime and remains Nuremberg’s most famous artist. His works are on display in many Old Masters galleries around the world. You can visit Durer’s half-timbered house if you’re curious to see how Durer and the upper classes lived in the 16th century. You won’t see any of his famous artwork there though.

Continuing downhill along Albrecht Durer Street you’ll eventually reach Weissgerbergasse where you’ll find adorable narrow timber-framed houses. This was my favourite part of Nuremberg but I feel a bit sorry for the residents who had to deal with the constant stream of tourists photographing their pretty houses.

Crossing over the historic chain bridge (which looks remarkably new) you’ll spot the 15th century Wine Store which is now a student residence. I wonder how they feel to be living in one of the city’s most historic buildings.

I was half-timber housed out at that point so headed back to the main square (Hauptmarkt) to hang out at the Christmas market. It was there I saw the most impressive sight for me in Nuremberg, the very unusual Beautiful Fountain. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a fountain like it. It was quite spooky looking.

I was hoping to visit the new Nuremberg Trials Memorium and the Nazi Party Rally Grounds but with only one full day in Nuremberg I just didn’t have time. I did manage a quick visit to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum to see some of Albrecht Durer’s paintings. I would have liked to have spent more time here but this summer there is going to be a special Durer exhibition so that might be a good time to return.

Where to Eat

I must admit I’m not very good at the solo eating thing. I don’t mind going to cafes alone, I actually quite enjoy that and I go to the movies alone all the time but there is something about eating solo in restaurants that make me feel uncomfortable. I was lucky that I visited Nuremberg while the Christmas markets were on so for the most part I snacked on street food from the markets and picked up sushi takeaway. This was only a short solo trip so that wasn’t much of a problem but if I was travelling for longer periods I would probably have to get up the courage to eat in a restaurant alone.

Where to Stay

On this trip I stayed at the NH Nuremberg City Hotel courtesy of Nuremberg Tourism. This modern hotel is located across from the train station and is a short walk to the Old Town, perfect for visiting the city’s main sights and the Christmas market. Read my full review of NH Nuremberg City here. It’s worth staying here for the breakfast alone.

Even though I was a little nervous about travelling alone, the people in Nuremberg were particularly warm and friendly and I met a number of people as I wandered around the city. There are many events and festivals on during the year but I think December is a great time to visit as they have one of the most unique and traditional Christmas markets in Europe.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: bavaria, Germany, nuremberg

Tollwood Winter Festival

January 6, 2012 by Andrea Leave a Comment

The Tollwood Winter Festival is promoted as an ‘alternative’ festival in Munich but judging by the crowds I’d say it’s actually pretty mainstream. Along with having a huge Christmas market, there are all kinds of events and activities and a special New Year’s Eve celebration.

Most of the stalls around the grounds are similar to what you find at the many other Christmas markets around Munich. There’s lots of handmade ornaments, cooking utensils, clothing and of course plenty of mulled wine, bratwurst and international specialities like the Hungarian langos.

Once I’d had my fill of wine, food and snowy weather, I headed inside some of the tents. The first one I came across was very artsy, there was even a woman chiselling away at a hunk of wood producing her art in our presence.

I couldn’t quite make out what these tins are for. Plants in a tin? Four leaf clover gifts? Why?

There was an international food hall and not the crappy shopping centre kind but one with food stalls with actual decent food. Thai, Japanese, Turkish and a few other cuisines were represented. The other tents had entertainment like circus performances and acrobatic shows.

The festival is held at Theresienwiese which is where the annual Oktoberfest takes place. While you are there you may as well head over to check out the gigantic Bavaria statue which represents Bavaria’s strength and glory.

Where to Stay

If you plan on spending a few days in Munich to visit the festival and the rest of the city, I recommend staying in a hotel near the train stain stain. This location is easy walking distance to the festival grounds as well as the Old Town and the museum quarter. On this trip I stayed at the very modern Schiller5 Hotel and would definitely recommend staying there.

Tollwood Festival

If you weren’t able to make the Tollwood Winter Festival this year, there is a summer version held in July which should be well worth a visit.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: festivals, Germany, Munich

Travel Photo: Dresden

January 3, 2012 by Andrea Leave a Comment

Schlossplatz on the Elbe River in Dresden, Germany.

Filed Under: Travel Photos Tagged With: dresden, Germany, photography

Christmas Market Tour Roundup

December 26, 2011 by Andrea 2 Comments

Now that it’s Boxing Day and I’m back from my Christmas Market Tour, I thought I’d do a quick roundup of what the markets have to offer. The markets visited were the Champs-Elysees in Paris, Lille, Nuremberg, Munich and Dresden.

I will start by saying that even though I think Christmas is generally a commercial waste of time, the German Christmas markets I visited sell mostly locally produced, hand made products and fantastic local food and wine. While many people do their Christmas shopping at the markets, they are also used as a place to informally get together with friends and family and catch up over mulled wine and bratwurst. The markets are more of a social experience rather than just somewhere to shop which was a pleasant surprise.

Paris

The Champs-Elysees Christmas market is the most famous in Paris and while you can get a few traditional items like pain d’epices, there aren’t a lot of quality products around, not to mention everything is way overpriced. Paris is more about the experience. The lights along Champs-Elysees are gorgeous at night and from the top of the Grande Roue I witnessed one of the most incredible views of the city I have ever seen.

Lille

Lille’s Christmas market on Place Rihour is quite small and is probably not worth a dedicated trip but the city itself is absolutely beautiful. I now count Lille as one of my favourite cities in France and there is so much to do here, especially if you’re a foodie. The Swiss stall selling Raclette was the best food stall out of all I visited during my 10 day tour. All I can say is bravo, La Suisse. As far as sweet treats go, I loved the Croustillant Hollandais found at the markets and around the city. I’m not a huge fan of mulled wine but the speciality here is hot cidre which is a particularly tasty alternative.

Nuremberg

Nuremberg’s main Christmas market is by far the most traditional out of all the Christmas markets I visited and probably the largest. They have strict regulations on what you can and can’t sell so you are guaranteed of getting local products and food. Nuremberg is most well known for the Nuremberg bratwurst which are small, thin sausages and the lebkuchen gingerbread. My recommendations are to try the pistachio candied nuts and the feuerzangenbowle which is hot wine with rum and sugar. Nuremberg is also the best option if you want to buy traditional ornaments and gifts. If you’re travelling with small kids, Nuremberg has a dedicated children’s Christmas market which should make them happy. Read more about Nuremberg’s Christmas market here.

Munich

There are so many different markets in Munich there is surely something for everyone. The main market in Marienplatz is by far the most crowded and I’d suggest heading to the little market in the courtyard off Odeonsplatz instead. It’s a much quieter market and is particularly good for kids. Just around the corner from there at Wittelsbacherplatz you’ll find a medieval style Christmas market and my favourite in Munich. The Nuremberg sausages I had there were cooked over open coals and were the best sausage of my trip. For something a little different, head to the Tollwood Winter Festival, located where they hold Oktoberfest each year. It’s promoted as an ‘alternative’ Christmas market but it seemed similar to what you find elsewhere. Arts and crafts were particularly popular and all kinds of organic food and wine are available. My favourite food here was the Hungarian Langos, a delicious vegetarian snack.

Dresden

The Christmas markets in Dresden had a different atmosphere to elsewhere. The people seemed more relaxed and sociable and there was a huge variety of food, both traditional and from foreign cuisines. Dresden was by far my favourite destination and probably the only Christmas market I will return to. You can read about Dresden’s Christmas market food here but highlights for me were the vegetarian Fladenbrot sandwich, the Dresden Rahmklecks (melted cheese and ham stuffed bread) and the sweet baked apples. The Dresdner Striezelmarkt had lots of activities for kids and great local products. I felt right at home here and can’t wait to return.

That’s it for my 2011 Christmas Market Tour and even though each market was unique and I had a great time everywhere, I’m glad Christmas only comes around once a year.

Filed Under: General Tagged With: christmas, France, Germany, markets

Travel Photo: Nuremberg

December 20, 2011 by Andrea Leave a Comment

Locals enjoying Nuremberg bratwurst in front of St. Sebaldus Church in Nuremberg, Germany.

Filed Under: Travel Photos Tagged With: Germany, nuremberg, photography

Germany’s Most Famous Christmas Market

December 19, 2011 by Andrea 2 Comments

There are a number of cities which claim to have the most famous Christmas market in Germany but in the end Nuremberg’s market seems to come out on top. It may not officially be the oldest, that title goes to Dresden, but it’s definitely the most traditional and one of the largest.

My focus on this trip was the food and there is definitely plenty of it to choose from. The number one item of choice for most people is the Nuremberg bratwurst. These are short, thin sausages eaten with a locally made bread. You usually get 3 in a bun but if you eat at a restaurant you might get 8-15!

Next up is the Lebkuchen which is usually translated as being gingerbread but it’s quite different to the gingerbread I know. Traditional Lebkuchen is made with nuts and no or little flour. It’s quite soft and almost like a cake rather than a biscuit.

Not to be forgotten is the all important mulled wine. I must admit I don’t get the attraction of mulled wine. I generally find it undrinkable but others love it. A slightly more palatable version is feuerzangenbowle which is made with melted sugar and rum. It’s quite potent for cheap drunks like me. After 5pm the markets were full with friends and family meeting up to chat over mulled wine.

My favourite food at the Nuremberg Christmas market would have to be the kartoffelpuffers which are kind of like hash browns. They are typically served with applesauce but I had cranberry sauce hoping it would be like what you find in Austria. It wasn’t. Don’t make the mistake of thinking these are vegetarian as they are cooked in a fairly significant amount of lard (pig fat).

Also quite nice were the stollenstern which are kind of like Italian panettone but with cranberries (or other fruit).

These biscuit ornaments are very cute.

I went to the Nuremberg with my eyes firmly set on the food side of the market but there is plenty of other stalls of interest. In Nuremberg, all the stands must have locally made products so you won’t find any imported plastic toys or tacky souvenir stands (I’m looking at you Paris). Instead you have hand made products like Nuremberg’s famous plum men and no, you can’t eat them.

Christmas baubles and manger type decorations seem to be popular with shoppers but I particularly liked these angels designed for the top of the Christmas tree and which are also the symbol of the Nuremberg market.

A fun option for kids and families is to go on a horse carriage ride around the market and old town. The beautiful horses wear special horseshoes so they don’t get sore from walking on the cobblestones.

The other highlight of the market is getting to see the famous Nuremberg Christmas Angel. The Christmas Angel opens the market each year and then spends the rest of the Christmas period bringing a little Christmas cheer to the city. I got to meet her and of course I had to ask her about her favourite Christmas market food. She didn’t seem to have a favourite but she did mention she definitely doesn’t like the famous Nuremberg bratwurst. Quel scandale!

Where to Stay in Nuremberg

I stayed in Nuremberg as a guest of Nuremberg Tourism and NH Nuremberg City. The NH Nuremberg City hotel is just down the road from the train station and a 15 minute walk from the Christmas markets. I was travelling by train so the location was ideal for me. The hotel itself is top quality and the breakfast was amazing. You can read my full review of NH Nuremberg City here.

Being Germany’s most famous city for Christmas markets, hotels do fill up quickly in December so I suggest booking well in advance or planning your stay for during the week instead of the weekend.

Nuremberg at Christmas

I love that this market is traditional and they don’t sell any cheap or tacky items. Even the stalls themselves are made in the traditional way and all the greenery which decorates them is real, not plastic. I had read that some people didn’t like this market because it’s too crowded but I didn’t have any problems at all. Visit during the day on weekdays and you’ll be fine.

It’s great that all the stands here are local but if you want a more international feel there is the Partners Christmas market in the smaller square next the Hauptmarkt with stalls from Romania, Italy, Montenegro, the United States and elsewhere. There is also a dedicated children’s market.

I only had a day and a half here and while that was enough to see the market I would have liked to have stayed longer to see more of the city and in particular to visit the museums dedicated to Nuremberg’s involvement in WWII. As usual, there is never enough time to see everything.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: christmas, Germany, markets, nuremberg

Dresden at Night

December 18, 2011 by Andrea 7 Comments

I just arrived in Dresden and was surprised to see what a beautiful city it is. I love the architecture and can’t wait to explore more of the city tomorrow. Here are a few photos from my first night in Dresden.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: dresden, Germany, photography

Virtual Visit: Berlin

July 29, 2011 by Andrea Leave a Comment

To continue with my Virtual Visit series for the armchair traveller here are some of the most beautiful and interesting landmarks and locations in Berlin courtesy of Google Street View.

Let’s start with the most iconic of Berlin’s landmarks, the Brandenburg Gate. For some reason it’s less impressive in real life but I still love it.

One of my favourite buildings in Berlin is Berliner Dom. It’s just stunning and the grassed area in front of it is a perfect place to sit and relax.

The Holocaust Memorial is one of the regular reminders of the past you’ll find around the city.

Cold War history buffs won’t want to miss Checkpoint Charlie. This is one of the most touristy places in the city but I love visiting this spot and seeing how the checkpoint was back then. It’s also interesting to read about the wall and checkpoint on the surrounding street displays. Btw, I love how Google blurred the American soldier’s face to protect his privacy, LOL.

The Reichstag is another impressive piece of Berlin architecture including the beautiful glass dome which gives 360 degree views of the city. It’s well worth a visit if you’re there on a clear day but note that you now have to book in advance if you want to go up, although it’s still free.

There are a number of places in Berlin where you can see the Berlin Wall still standing but the East Side Gallery, just near Ostbahnhof train station, is the longest stretch.

Gendarmenmarkt is one of the prettiest squares in Berlin. In the surrounding streets you’ll find many upscale cafes, restaurants and chocolate shops including the famous Fassbender & Rausch.

If East Berlin is your thing or you just want towering views of the city, head over to Alexanderplatz and the Fernsehturm.

One of the most visited attractions in Berlin is the Schloss Charlottenburg where you can do a tour of the palace and the beautiful formal gardens.

Filed Under: Virtual Visits Tagged With: berlin, Germany, street view, virtual

Road Trip Time!

Road Trip #1

Road Trip #2

Have a Beer by the Rhine

Get the Best View of Cologne

Add a Lovelock to the Hohenzollern Bridge

Visit Cologne’s Festivals

Eat!

1. Dresden has been completely rebuilt

2. The Balcony of Europe

3. Meissen Porcelain

4. Food at the Christmas Markets

5. The Stunning City Skyline

6. The New Green Vault

Image: Wikipedia

7. Coffee and Cake

Tollwood Winter Festival

Christmas Markets

Museum Quarter

Shopping

Eating

Where to Stay

Munich in Winter

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Where to Stay

Tollwood Festival

Paris

Lille

Nuremberg

Munich

Dresden

Where to Stay in Nuremberg

Nuremberg at Christmas

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