Going Retro: The Trabant

February 2, 2012 by Andrea 2 Comments

The East German Trabant or Trabi is not something you see everyday, at least not in my part of the world but I have spotted them every now and then in Germany. They were produced in East Germany from the 50s until the fall of the Berlin Wall and are easily recognisable as the design never really changed much in all the years of production.

Trabants are adorable cars and a bit of a collectors item nowadays even though they have been rated as one of the worst cars ever! There are more than 32,000 still on the road so hopefully I’ll spot a few more next time I’m in Germany.

The cars shown above are part of a tour you can take in Berlin where you drive around in your Trabant and see the sights of the city. What a great idea!

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: berlin, cars, Germany

7 Great Things About Dresden

January 28, 2012 by Andrea 11 Comments

Germany is such a diverse country and each time I visit a new region I’m surprised with what I discover. While each region shares a similar culture, history and cuisine, they are different enough to make each place unique and interesting. Some cities are more unique than others and Dresden stands out to me as somewhere like no other in Germany.

I was in Dresden in December and was expecting bitterly cold temperatures and snow but instead the weather was sunny and mild. It was unusual for that time of the year but it gave me the opportunity to spend hours each day walking and exploring the city. Here are 7 great things I discovered about Dresden while I was there.

1. Dresden has been completely rebuilt

The Allied bombardment of Dresden in the final days of WWII completely destroyed the city and killed at least 25,000 civilians. That was followed by decades of communist rule so I wasn’t expecting too much in terms of architecture. Fortunately though, much of the old town has been rebuilt in its original style and structures like the beautiful Frauenkirche stand once again.

2. The Balcony of Europe

Brühl’s Terrace is an elevated area along the Elbe known as the Balcony of Europe. It’s a great place to walk and admire the scenery and the paddle steamers located below.

3. Meissen Porcelain

While porcelain gets a bit of a bad rap for being old fashioned, the famous Meissen porcelain is now being produced in more modern designs. Unfortunately it’s a little out of my budget but the incredible porcelain painting on the side of the Furstenzug is completely free to admire.

4. Food at the Christmas Markets

Dresden has the oldest Christmas market in the world and in my experience the best Christmas market food. I was travelling solo in Dresden so it was nice to be able to snack on fresh and healthy (sometimes) street food instead of having to eat alone in a restaurant.

5. The Stunning City Skyline

The rebuilding of the city is best appreciated in the stunning city skyline. The New Synagogue, Frauenkirche, Hofkirche and the Semperoper are all located along the Elbe and make for a beautiful sight, especially when lit up at night. This view is from my room at the Hotel Am Terrassenufer which you can read more about here.

6. The New Green Vault

Dresden has some fascinating museums but the one which really blew my mind was the New Green Vault at the Residenzschloss. There you can see a cherry pit which is said to have 185 faces carved on it. I can’t imagine why someone would do that but kudos to them. There are gold and ivory statues with the Royal Household at Delhi being one of the most elaborate.

Image: Wikipedia

You can also get a close up look at the Dresden Green Diamond which is 41 carats (!) and flawless. It is green in colour because it was exposed to natural radiation.

Unfortunately it’s not possible to take photos in the museum so it’s difficult to show how amazing it is but I think it’s worth visiting Dresden for this museum alone. I have never seen anything like the intricate and elaborate statues and ornaments found there.

7. Coffee and Cake

The afternoon tradition of stopping for coffee and cake is well respected in Dresden. I enjoyed a cake break at the famous Grand Cafe Coselpalais, just next to the Frauenkirche. The baroque style building was rebuilt and completed in 2000 and they are once again serving traditional food and desserts on beautiful Meissen porcelain tableware.

I spent most of my time walking around Dresden but also did a hop on hop off bus tour which was great for seeing sights a bit further out of the centre and to keep warm when it started to get a little chilly.

It seems like each time I visit a new city in Germany, that city becomes my favourite. Cologne, Munich and Berlin have all been my favourite German cities at one time or another but now it’s most definitely Dresden, a city which deserves more attention than it gets.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: dresden, Germany, saxony

Munich in Winter

January 23, 2012 by Andrea 3 Comments

Spring and summer are great times to visit Munich as the warmer and dryer weather means you can enjoy the many beer gardens and parks dotted around the city or even do a little river surfing. September too sees floods of visitors arrive in the city for the annual Oktoberfest but what about in the winter months?

My three days in Munich last month were extremely hectic so the city definitely doesn’t quieten down in the colder months. If anything I’d say December is a very busy time with all the Christmas markets, the Tollwood Festival and everyone out Christmas shopping. It’s a great time to visit because there is no chance you’ll be bored and you can avoid the cooler weather by heading indoors to visit any of the many museums and art galleries.

Tollwood Winter Festival

The Tollwood Winter Festival is more than just a Christmas market. It has more of an international flavour and there is entertainment like circus acts and a special New Year’s celebration. There are themed tents depending on what you want to do and these are the best places to keep warm on a wintry day.

Christmas Markets

The main Christmas market in Marienplatz is a nice place to wander around but you might want to avoid visiting on the weekends when it can get very, very crowded. A better option would be to stick to the smaller markets which still have a lot to offer but you don’t have to worry about pushing your way through the crowds. I particularly liked the small market off Odeonsplatz and the medieval style Christmas market at Wittelsbacherplatz.

From Wittelsbacherplatz you could cross the road to enjoy coffee and cake at the historic Cafe Luitpold.

Museum Quarter

Not far from the main train station you’ll find many of Munich’s most well known museums and art galleries conveniently located within a few minutes walk of each other. For €12 you can get a day pass to the 3 Pinakotheken (Alte, Neue and Moderne) and the Museum Brandhorst.

The Alte Pinakothek (Old Masters Gallery) is particularly well known for it works by Rubens including the The Dying Seneca where philosopher Seneca is forced to commit ‘suicide’.

At the Neue Pinakothek (New Picture Gallery) there are a huge number of popular works by Renoir, Monet, Toulouse-Lautrec, Van Gogh and my favourite that day, Woman in Red Dress by Edvard Munch.

I particularly liked the Pinakothek der Moderne (Modern Art Museum) for its design museum which includes computer design through the decades (Apple is well represented) and a great section on furniture and product design.

Shopping

Munich has always been one of my favourite places to go shopping. You’ve got all the popular chain stores along pedestrian street Kaufinger Straße, more upmarket shops at Theatinerstraße and Fünf Höfe and window shopping only (for me) at Maximilianstraße. Smaller and cheaper shops are found in Sendlinger Straße and Schwabing. One of my favourite shops is Manufactum which has an odd mix of gourmet food, clothing, office and gardening products. I don’t quite get it but it’s fun to walk around.

Eating

Normally I would recommend going to Viktualienmarkt to pick up picnic supplies but obviously that’s not a good idea in the middle of winter. Instead, I’d suggest heading next door to the recently opened Schrannenhalle which is an indoor market where you can pick up gourmet food to go or sit and eat at the informal tables. This has quickly become one of my favourite foodie places in Munich.

Across from Schrannenhalle is one of my favourite cafes of all time, Cafe Frischhut. It’s a Munich institution and not to be missed.

There are a million other places to eat in Munich so I might have to go back just to research the best places to eat. If you’re feeling particularly touristy you could always eat at Hofbrauhaus but once was more than enough for me.

Where to Stay

On this trip to Munich I stayed at the Schiller5 Hotel. The location is perfect as it’s walking distance to the main train station, Marienplatz, the Tollwood Festival and the museum area. The hotel itself is very modern, spotlessly clean and with large apartment rooms (with kitchen) so if you want to shop at Schrannenhalle and eat in your room you can. Read my full review of Schiller5 here.

Munich in Winter

I don’t think there is ever a bad time to visit Munich. It’s a big city where there is always something going on and always something new to see. Hopefully this year will be the year I finally get to go to Oktoberfest but if not I will happily return any time.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: bavaria, Germany, Munich

Going Solo in Nuremberg

January 10, 2012 by Andrea 6 Comments

All I knew about Nuremberg before heading there is that they have one of the most visited Christmas markets in Europe and of course for the Nuremberg Trials. I’ve already written about their traditional Christmas market as well as the famous Nuremberg bratwurst but the city has much more to offer than that.

I usually travel with my husband but while he was off spending time with his family I decided to make a quick trip to Nuremberg. This was my first solo trip for quite some time so to keep busy I got myself a Nuremberg City Card and set about visiting all the cultural sights.

The most popular attraction in Nuremberg is the Imperial Castle and this is the perfect place to start a visit to the city as you get a great overview of the city from high up on the hill.

You can visit the castle grounds during the day for free and visit the museum to see the medieval armour and weapons. I would only recommend visiting the castle museum if you are interested in weaponry as there isn’t much else to see. There are guided tours of the castle but they are only available in German.

From the castle you can head down to Albrecht Durer’s House. Albrecht Durer was well known around Europe during his lifetime and remains Nuremberg’s most famous artist. His works are on display in many Old Masters galleries around the world. You can visit Durer’s half-timbered house if you’re curious to see how Durer and the upper classes lived in the 16th century. You won’t see any of his famous artwork there though.

Continuing downhill along Albrecht Durer Street you’ll eventually reach Weissgerbergasse where you’ll find adorable narrow timber-framed houses. This was my favourite part of Nuremberg but I feel a bit sorry for the residents who had to deal with the constant stream of tourists photographing their pretty houses.

Crossing over the historic chain bridge (which looks remarkably new) you’ll spot the 15th century Wine Store which is now a student residence. I wonder how they feel to be living in one of the city’s most historic buildings.

I was half-timber housed out at that point so headed back to the main square (Hauptmarkt) to hang out at the Christmas market. It was there I saw the most impressive sight for me in Nuremberg, the very unusual Beautiful Fountain. I can’t say I’ve ever seen a fountain like it. It was quite spooky looking.

I was hoping to visit the new Nuremberg Trials Memorium and the Nazi Party Rally Grounds but with only one full day in Nuremberg I just didn’t have time. I did manage a quick visit to the Germanisches Nationalmuseum to see some of Albrecht Durer’s paintings. I would have liked to have spent more time here but this summer there is going to be a special Durer exhibition so that might be a good time to return.

Where to Eat

I must admit I’m not very good at the solo eating thing. I don’t mind going to cafes alone, I actually quite enjoy that and I go to the movies alone all the time but there is something about eating solo in restaurants that make me feel uncomfortable. I was lucky that I visited Nuremberg while the Christmas markets were on so for the most part I snacked on street food from the markets and picked up sushi takeaway. This was only a short solo trip so that wasn’t much of a problem but if I was travelling for longer periods I would probably have to get up the courage to eat in a restaurant alone.

Where to Stay

On this trip I stayed at the NH Nuremberg City Hotel courtesy of Nuremberg Tourism. This modern hotel is located across from the train station and is a short walk to the Old Town, perfect for visiting the city’s main sights and the Christmas market. Read my full review of NH Nuremberg City here. It’s worth staying here for the breakfast alone.

Even though I was a little nervous about travelling alone, the people in Nuremberg were particularly warm and friendly and I met a number of people as I wandered around the city. There are many events and festivals on during the year but I think December is a great time to visit as they have one of the most unique and traditional Christmas markets in Europe.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: bavaria, Germany, nuremberg

Tollwood Winter Festival

January 6, 2012 by Andrea Leave a Comment

The Tollwood Winter Festival is promoted as an ‘alternative’ festival in Munich but judging by the crowds I’d say it’s actually pretty mainstream. Along with having a huge Christmas market, there are all kinds of events and activities and a special New Year’s Eve celebration.

Most of the stalls around the grounds are similar to what you find at the many other Christmas markets around Munich. There’s lots of handmade ornaments, cooking utensils, clothing and of course plenty of mulled wine, bratwurst and international specialities like the Hungarian langos.

Once I’d had my fill of wine, food and snowy weather, I headed inside some of the tents. The first one I came across was very artsy, there was even a woman chiselling away at a hunk of wood producing her art in our presence.

I couldn’t quite make out what these tins are for. Plants in a tin? Four leaf clover gifts? Why?

There was an international food hall and not the crappy shopping centre kind but one with food stalls with actual decent food. Thai, Japanese, Turkish and a few other cuisines were represented. The other tents had entertainment like circus performances and acrobatic shows.

The festival is held at Theresienwiese which is where the annual Oktoberfest takes place. While you are there you may as well head over to check out the gigantic Bavaria statue which represents Bavaria’s strength and glory.

Where to Stay

If you plan on spending a few days in Munich to visit the festival and the rest of the city, I recommend staying in a hotel near the train stain stain. This location is easy walking distance to the festival grounds as well as the Old Town and the museum quarter. On this trip I stayed at the very modern Schiller5 Hotel and would definitely recommend staying there.

Tollwood Festival

If you weren’t able to make the Tollwood Winter Festival this year, there is a summer version held in July which should be well worth a visit.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: festivals, Germany, Munich

Germany’s Most Famous Christmas Market

December 19, 2011 by Andrea 2 Comments

There are a number of cities which claim to have the most famous Christmas market in Germany but in the end Nuremberg’s market seems to come out on top. It may not officially be the oldest, that title goes to Dresden, but it’s definitely the most traditional and one of the largest.

My focus on this trip was the food and there is definitely plenty of it to choose from. The number one item of choice for most people is the Nuremberg bratwurst. These are short, thin sausages eaten with a locally made bread. You usually get 3 in a bun but if you eat at a restaurant you might get 8-15!

Next up is the Lebkuchen which is usually translated as being gingerbread but it’s quite different to the gingerbread I know. Traditional Lebkuchen is made with nuts and no or little flour. It’s quite soft and almost like a cake rather than a biscuit.

Not to be forgotten is the all important mulled wine. I must admit I don’t get the attraction of mulled wine. I generally find it undrinkable but others love it. A slightly more palatable version is feuerzangenbowle which is made with melted sugar and rum. It’s quite potent for cheap drunks like me. After 5pm the markets were full with friends and family meeting up to chat over mulled wine.

My favourite food at the Nuremberg Christmas market would have to be the kartoffelpuffers which are kind of like hash browns. They are typically served with applesauce but I had cranberry sauce hoping it would be like what you find in Austria. It wasn’t. Don’t make the mistake of thinking these are vegetarian as they are cooked in a fairly significant amount of lard (pig fat).

Also quite nice were the stollenstern which are kind of like Italian panettone but with cranberries (or other fruit).

These biscuit ornaments are very cute.

I went to the Nuremberg with my eyes firmly set on the food side of the market but there is plenty of other stalls of interest. In Nuremberg, all the stands must have locally made products so you won’t find any imported plastic toys or tacky souvenir stands (I’m looking at you Paris). Instead you have hand made products like Nuremberg’s famous plum men and no, you can’t eat them.

Christmas baubles and manger type decorations seem to be popular with shoppers but I particularly liked these angels designed for the top of the Christmas tree and which are also the symbol of the Nuremberg market.

A fun option for kids and families is to go on a horse carriage ride around the market and old town. The beautiful horses wear special horseshoes so they don’t get sore from walking on the cobblestones.

The other highlight of the market is getting to see the famous Nuremberg Christmas Angel. The Christmas Angel opens the market each year and then spends the rest of the Christmas period bringing a little Christmas cheer to the city. I got to meet her and of course I had to ask her about her favourite Christmas market food. She didn’t seem to have a favourite but she did mention she definitely doesn’t like the famous Nuremberg bratwurst. Quel scandale!

Where to Stay in Nuremberg

I stayed in Nuremberg as a guest of Nuremberg Tourism and NH Nuremberg City. The NH Nuremberg City hotel is just down the road from the train station and a 15 minute walk from the Christmas markets. I was travelling by train so the location was ideal for me. The hotel itself is top quality and the breakfast was amazing. You can read my full review of NH Nuremberg City here.

Being Germany’s most famous city for Christmas markets, hotels do fill up quickly in December so I suggest booking well in advance or planning your stay for during the week instead of the weekend.

Nuremberg at Christmas

I love that this market is traditional and they don’t sell any cheap or tacky items. Even the stalls themselves are made in the traditional way and all the greenery which decorates them is real, not plastic. I had read that some people didn’t like this market because it’s too crowded but I didn’t have any problems at all. Visit during the day on weekdays and you’ll be fine.

It’s great that all the stands here are local but if you want a more international feel there is the Partners Christmas market in the smaller square next the Hauptmarkt with stalls from Romania, Italy, Montenegro, the United States and elsewhere. There is also a dedicated children’s market.

I only had a day and a half here and while that was enough to see the market I would have liked to have stayed longer to see more of the city and in particular to visit the museums dedicated to Nuremberg’s involvement in WWII. As usual, there is never enough time to see everything.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: christmas, Germany, markets, nuremberg

Dresden at Night

December 18, 2011 by Andrea 7 Comments

I just arrived in Dresden and was surprised to see what a beautiful city it is. I love the architecture and can’t wait to explore more of the city tomorrow. Here are a few photos from my first night in Dresden.

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: dresden, Germany, photography

Polar Bear Knut Dies

March 20, 2011 by Andrea 4 Comments

I was very sad to hear that 4 year old Knut died yesterday (19th March) at Berlin Zoo. He was such a cutie and we went a few years ago just to see him.

The celebrity bear died suddenly in his compound at the Berlin Zoo on Saturday afternoon, bear keeper Heiner Kloes told The Associated Press. He waded into the water in his enclosure before having a short spasm and then dying in front of hundreds of zoo visitors.

Rejected by his mother at birth on December 5, 2006, along with his twin brother, who only survived a couple of days, Knut first attracted attention when his main caregiver, Thomas Doerflein, camped out at the zoo to give the button-eyed cub his bottle every two hours. Doerflein cuddled and played with him at daily public appearances to the delight of thousands of people who came to watch.

No longer a cub, Knut grew rapidly, weighing a hulking 440-pounds (200-kilograms) by age two, and trading in white fluff for yellowish fur. Doerflein, the zookeeper who raised him, died in 2008 of a heart attack, earning front page headlines in German newspapaper as “Knut’s daddy.”

Between 600 and 700 people were at his compound when Knut died, zoo officials said. One visitor said she watched Knut lying on the surface of the water motionless with only his back showing for ten minutes until zookeepers came and fenced off the compound.

Via @BreakingNews and GrandForksHerald

Some photos I took of 1 year old Knut in 2008:

Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: berlin, Germany, knut, zoo

Google Street View Comes to Germany

November 19, 2010 by Andrea 4 Comments

I love Google street view. It makes my life so much easier when I have to go somewhere new or when I’m trying to spy on people.

France was the first country in Europe to get the street view option on Google Maps in 2008. Many other European countries have been added since then but Germany was slow to get it due to privacy issues. Germany’s 20 largest cities, including Berlin, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Munich, and Dusseldorf now have street view available.

What does this mean for travellers? It makes planning so much easier because you can check street directions to your hotel or wherever you are visiting in advance. Of course you can do this with a regular map but it’s so much easier to get your bearings with street view. You can pick out landmarks to be sure you’re heading in the right direction.

You can also check out the neighbourhood of where you’re going, so you can avoid picking a hotel in what looks to be in a dodgy area or you can pick somewhere where you know there are cafes or internet shops etc around.

At the end of the day though, it’s just fun to go on a virtual visit of a city using Google street view.

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Filed Under: Germany Tagged With: Germany, google street view, maps, Travel

Going Retro: The Trabant

7 Great Things About Dresden

1. Dresden has been completely rebuilt

2. The Balcony of Europe

3. Meissen Porcelain

4. Food at the Christmas Markets

5. The Stunning City Skyline

6. The New Green Vault

Image: Wikipedia

7. Coffee and Cake

Munich in Winter

Tollwood Winter Festival

Christmas Markets

Museum Quarter

Shopping

Eating

Where to Stay

Munich in Winter

Going Solo in Nuremberg

Where to Eat

Where to Stay

Tollwood Winter Festival

Where to Stay

Tollwood Festival

Germany’s Most Famous Christmas Market

Where to Stay in Nuremberg

Nuremberg at Christmas

Dresden at Night

Polar Bear Knut Dies

Google Street View Comes to Germany

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