The only reason to go to Kukes is to change taxis on the way from Tirana to Prizren in Kosovo. Kukes consists only of communist era and new buildings as the old city was flooded and buried by the nearby dam.
F’s father is from a nearby village and he still has relatives in the region as well as in Prizren. On the way back from our day trip to Prizren, a guy offered us a lift back to Tirana. Within two minutes of taking off we discover this guy is married to one of F’s relatives and he knows all about F’s family. Small world.
We then took a detour to visit this guy’s uncle who wrote a couple of books about another of F’s relatives, Havzi Nela, a famous writer/poet/dissident who was hung in the centre of Kukes for political reasons, just before the fall of communism.
It definitely made for an interesting trip as I am always interested in hearing stories of life under communism in Albania.










