Kukes

The only reason to go to Kukes is to change taxis on the way from Tirana to Prizren in Kosovo. Kukes consists only of communist era and new buildings as the old city was flooded and buried by the nearby dam.

F’s father is from a nearby village and he still has relatives in the region as well as in Prizren. On the way back from our day trip to Prizren, a guy offered us a lift back to Tirana. Within two minutes of taking off we discover this guy is married to one of F’s relatives and he knows all about F’s family. Small world.

We then took a detour to visit this guy’s uncle who wrote a couple of books about another of F’s relatives, Havzi Nela, a famous writer/poet/dissident who was hung in the centre of Kukes for political reasons, just before the fall of communism.

It definitely made for an interesting trip as I am always interested in hearing stories of life under communism in Albania.

Kosovo

Prizren in Kosovo is a 3-4 hour trip from Tirana. It will be much quicker once the new highway is completed but that looks to be a long way off. I’d definitely recommend visiting Kosovo’s most beautiful city, at least for a few hours.

From the little I saw of Kosovo, it looks like the people live better than in Albania. There are very few ugly communist era concrete apartment blocks which you see everywhere in Albania, instead you have Turkish influenced buildings and new three story houses which, although not of a very high quality, fit in perfectly with the style of the city. There is an extraordinary amount of rubbish around though. It seems like the Albanian way is to just throw your rubbish wherever you like. It’s a shame to see the old town and castle ruined by litter.

The people in Prizren are extremely friendly, more than happy to give directions and point out places of interest. One guy even gave us fruit to sustain us on our trek up to the castle. They also love to discuss economics and politics which is the case for most Albanians I’ve come across :)

Prizren (and probably Kosovo in general) is quite religious and I counted 25 mosques and a couple of (burnt out) Orthodox churches, although I am sure there are more. If you walk up to the castle you can see all the minarets popping up over the pretty city which is surrounded by huge mountains.

Also of interest are the burnt out houses of the former Serb residents who were forced to flee in 2004. The burnt out buildings remain and the Serbs are never coming back.

As with most places I’ve visited on this quick tour of the Balkans, I want to go back and see more. I’d love to go to Peja and Prishtina one day soon too.

kosovo

Prizren Kosovo

prizren-centre

prizren-town

prizren-kosovo-mosque

prizren-burnt-out-church

prizren-orthodox-cathedral

prizren-burnt-out-serb-homes

Shkodra

Most tourists only visit Shkodra, in northern Albania, on the way through to Tirana from Montenegro. That’s exactly why I was there. Since the end of communism, the town has been in decline and there is very little to see aside from the Rozafa Fortress.

I got a quick glimpse of the fortress while stuck in traffic in a gypsy camp where local kids knocked on the car windows begging for money. That reminded me of the last time I was in Albania when after entering getting off the ferry at Durres, I was waiting alone in my car when about 10 gypsy kids surrounded the car knocking on the windows. The kids are quite cute but they can be very aggressive!

The only building I saw in Shkodra which wasn’t a concrete apartment block was a mosque recently built as a gift from Saudi Arabia.

rozafa-fortress-shkodra

shkodra-mosque

Ulcinj

It was a mistake to take the bus from Split all the way to Ulcinj in the south of Montenegro. The bus left at 4pm and didn’t arrive until 1am. The drive was exhausting and the winding roads made me more than a little queasy. Ulcinj is a small coastal town and I knew nothing would be open at that time of night and it would be almost impossible to find a hotel. Thankfully, the bus driver was Albanian (around 80% of Ulcinj residents are Albanian) and F was able to talk to him and arrange for us to stay with a local taxi driver. The room we had was very basic to say the least but at 7 euros per person I couldn’t complain.

Before leaving for Shkodra the next day, we did a quick tour of the old town to see its Ottoman era buildings. We didn’t have time to stop so I couldn’t get many photos or get much of a feel for the city but I hear the sandy beach is supposed to be beautiful.

Our driver then took us over the Albanian border to Shkodra. The one hour drive was enough for F to make friends with him and next time we are in Montenegro he offered to drive us wherever we want to go. Hopefully I’ll be back within a year or so as I would love to visit Budva and Kotor amongst other places in Montenegro.

ulcinj-montenegro

Split

My first view of Split was concrete apartment block after concrete apartment block. Luckily I new it was going to be like that so I wasn’t surprised. Of course, I’m wasn’t there to see the suburbs, I was there to see the stunning Diocletian’s Palace and the rest of the old town, along with the islands of Hvar and Brac (Bol).

Split’s old town is centred around the Diocletian’s Palace, a beautiful old Roman structure. I love this kind of building and it’s great to just sit and think about the people that lived there when it was built hundreds of years ago. 

After visiting the ruins, I wandered around the old town, through the little marble streets, stopping for a drink here or there and doing a little shopping for local specialities.

Most people only visit Split to use as a base to visit the nearby islands or on their way to or from Dubrovnik but I really liked Split, provided you stick to the old town and Marjan Hill and stay away from the ugly suburbs, it’s great. I would definitely go back and spend more time exploring the nearby towns and islands including a visit to Brela (for its renowned beaches) and Vis (a small island town not far from Brac).

split-diocletian-palace

split-palace

split-croatia

split

split-square

Lokrum Island

Lokrum Island is small island just off the coast of Dubrovnik. It takes less then 30 minutes to get there and is well worth spending an afternoon.

The island is covered with forest and as it’s a nature reserve so you’re not supposed to touch any plants or leave rubbish and smoking is strictly forbidden. This means the island is pristine although I think every Croatian island I visited was pretty clean anyway.

At Lokrum you can visit the ruins of an old monastery. It’s very beautiful and the only inhabitants now are a few families of peacocks. I saw at least 20 peacocks while walking around the island and a couple even joined us for lunch at the monastery restaurant.

After eating another delicious fish lunch, we explored the island some more and went swimming off the rocky coast in the freezing, crystal clear water.

Lokrum Island is quiet, beautiful, clean and with loads of native birds and secluded swimming locations. This was one of my favourite islands in Croatia.

lokrum-monastery

lokrum-cliff

lokrum-island

lokrum-peacocks

lunch-with-peacocks

Korcula

Korcula Island is one of the many breathtakingly beautiful islands of the coast of Croatia. It’s easily accessible from both Dubrovnik and Split and makes a great, albeit rushed, day trip. If you had the time you could spend a few days here relaxing, swimming, and wandering around the old town where Marco Polo was (possibly) born.

I loved everything about this island. The old town is gorgeous, you can sit peacefully admiring the harbour, or swim on one of the rocky beaches. The only negative is the 1000s of other tourists and the touristy restaurants in the old town but that seems to be a common problem throughout Croatia. I guess there’s not much chance of having such a beautiful place to myself.

korcula-town

korcula-island

korcula-marco-polos-house

korcula-old-town

Bol

My original plan for my trip to Croatia was to visit Dubrovnik then work my way up north visiting the islands along the coast, then heading to Plitvice Lakes, Zagreb, and finally crossing the border to Ljubljana. I met F and his mother in Dubrovnik (they arrived from Albania) and we eventually made it up to Split. The problem with heading further north was that eventually they would have to travel by bus back to Albania and the trip would be too long and exhausting for F’s 70 year old mother so we decided against it.

Plan B was to spend a couple of days on Bol, a small town on Brac Island with beautiful pebble beaches. All I wanted to do at that point was lay on the beach and swim in the crystal clear water. That’s what I did on the first day. The famous beach in Bol is at Zlatni Rat and it is just as beautiful as I had seen in the photos. The water is so clean and clear, if not a little on the chilly side, although that is probably normal for September. If you swim out a little bit away from the beach you can see lots of fish swimming in the deep waters below.

Day 2 was a complete washout with a huge storm lasting the entire day. With no internet access in my guesthouse, I had nothing to do but lie around reading my book. As relaxing as that sounds, it was kind of boring but the apartment owner Petra made it somewhat interesting by insisting on chatting with me in a mixture of Croatian and German, neither of which I speak.

All the locals in Bol were extremely friendly and helpful. I loved every minute there. I considered never leaving but the thought of living in a tiny town with only one ferry per day was enough to put an end to that idea.

If you want an amazing meal with a menu which is far from the standard pizza, pasta, black risotto, grilled meat and fish menu you see at 90% of Croatian restaurants, then I recommend Vagabundo. The food was incredible and even though it’s an upscale restaurant, the price was less than 20 euros per head.

Brac definitely ranks among my favourite islands in Croatia.

bol-zlatni-rat

bol-beach-cloudy

bol-water

bol-to-hvar

 bol-harbour

 bol-sunset

Hvar

Another beautiful off the coast of Croatia is Hvar. It’s a rushed day trip from Split as the Catamaran doesn’t leave until 11am and the ferry back to Split is at 5:30pm. That gave us enough time for a delicious seafood lunch at Maconda and a brief walk around the beautiful old town. There are some gorgeous rocky beaches around Hvar Town but I didn’t have time to swim. I hated being rushed but I didn’t have time to stay this time around. I’d love to go back to Hvar and stay for a week or so to relax and explore the town and the rest of the island.

hvar-town

hvar-street

 hvar-harbour

 hvar-icecream